The same taxi driver that collected us from the airport and whose name I really should commit to memory before we leave, arrived at 07:30 to take drive us to the rice terraces. It was a reasonably long drive and I spent most of it looking out of the window and trying to get a feel for some more-real-than-Seminyak Bali and chatting with the driver. The girls in the back battered mum with questions, H using "how many minutes until we get there?" like a punctuation mark.
We stopped at Canggu...well, we didn't because this was a coffee stop the driver thought would be nice but which deviated from Sal's plan, so rather than stop we did a lap of the car park and kept going. Our driver (fuck, I feel SO rude not being able to use his name) had worked in the rice fields until 2004, earning $2-3 day. That is doing it tough. As we passed rice he explained that the ducks in the fields are also farmed; they keep bugs down while they roam about and then become my dinner. Yes, there are snakes, and yes, some of them are dangerous. But they help control the rats. And although there are machines that can now harvest rice he (and his wide, who still works the fields) used hand tools.
Sal had made the right decision to leave early so we could avoid most of the traffic. The roads were a little clearer around our part of town as a lot of the shop keepers are Muslim and Monday was a public holiday for the end of Ramadan. We had the obligatory - and seemingly worldwide - conversation about Muslims. In Bali everyone gets on, but on Lombok there is trouble, why can't they live together yadda yadda yadda. I wonder if I'll live long enough to see who gets to share the ire next?
TD came to rescue us. (No, calling the taxi driver TD did not make me feel better about not knowing his name...) We were a bit sweaty - what with the terraces and the hills - and by the time we were rescued we were comically close to where we'd started our walk. Rather than head back we decided to move on to a next stop that - arrrgghh! - was a bit unplanned. I say a bit because we wanted a coffee (natch) but stopping at a Kopi Luwak place was not part of the main plan. Before heading off TD placed the large(dead) spider that had dropped on his car into the offering atop his dash. Good luck apparently. I think it may be a banana spider, bit I'm not sure. Ah-ha, actually nephalia pilipes, a type of golden orb weaver.
The coffee stop was good. At a small coffee plantation on the main road, sitting atop a terrace. A good place, the have a couple if civit cats, a guide explains the process and they have some people roasting and grinding the coffee in the traditional manner. Then we had a free tasting of the coffee, several others and a load of herbal teas while looking out over the terraces. I spent some of the time trying to figure out people's obsession with placing themselves in all manner of pouty poses in their pictures. I guess it is a form of self expression, but it seems so so self absorbed and vacuous, people placing more stock in themselves being in a picture than enjoying and sharing the place itself? Dunno, I'm just a grumpy old bastard. But while I am having a whinge, I am also fed up with having to compose my pictures to avoid having your fucking drone in my shot. Ahem, moving on...I like all the teas and all the coffee apart from the straight Balinese. The luwak was good though. Having had no hard sell we went to the shop and purchased some teas and it is only now, as I type this, that I realise that may come to haunt us when we get to customs in Sydney at sill o clock on Sunday morning. Ah well.
It was only lunchtime now and TD took us back into Ubud and suggested the suckling pig at Ibu Oka which I rate more highly than trip advisor. - a good call, solid local fare and cheap. The traffic was a bit chaotic in Ubud so when Sal called TD I had an opportunity to do a quick lap of the palace, click off a few pictures and get frustrated - again - at people plonking themselves front and centre in front of their, and every one else's pictures. I'm sure your friends already know what you look like, how about use more of the frame for, oh, I don't know, the temple gates? Grrr....ahem...
Right, I'm at the end of my blogging patience and the rest of the day was a stop at a silver jewelry making place and a dip in the pool before dinner and bed.
Woo-hoo! I'm up to date!
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